My favorite city in Spain is definitely Sevilla. It has a very unique vibe and while there are many sites to tour, truly the only way to experience
Sevilla is to go on a Tapeo; hopping from tapas bar to tapas bar enjoying the
food and the socializing. However, with
nearly 4,000 tapas joints in the city, the prospect can be a bit
intimidating. Don’t worry, here is a
tour that will not only allow you to have the experience but will take you
through some of city’s unique neighborhoods.
Café Bar Las Teresas
The
Barrio Santa Cruz, Sevilla’s old Jewish Quarter, is a picturesque collection of
narrow winding streets and alleys and while quite touristy, it is fun to
navigate the labyrinth and feel the historic vibe. The narrowness of the streets was
intentional; designed to provide protection from the blazing summer sun. Today, they open to small peaceful courtyards
containing ceramic benches and orange trees.
In the heart of the neighborhood is a very traditional tapas bar, the
Café Bar Las Teresas. While the
outside tables may seem enticing, venture inside and soak-in all of the
nostalgia. Find a seat at one of the
small tables, order a ración (plate) of Jamon Iberico de Bellota, Spain’s
famous cured pork and a glass of cold fino (Sherry). It makes for an excellent start to a tapas
tour.
Café Bar Las Teresas
Calle Santa Teresa 2
Open: 12:00 – 0.00 Kitchen open 13.00-16.00/20.00 – 0.00
Casa Morales
A short walk past the Cathedral will take
you into the neighborhood between the Avenue de la Constitución and Guadalquivir
River, known as El Arenal. While
Sevilla’s bullfighting ring, the impressive La Real Maestranza is located here,
many outstanding tapas restaurants also call El Arenal home. Pass by the front
room of Casa Morales, round the corner and enter into the back bar. The rustic room is surrounded by large clay
wine vats (8 ft tall!) called tinajas, which adds to the location’s ambience. Grab a table or stand at the bar and soak in
the surroundings. You might notice a
local sipping on a caňa (small beer) but Casa Morales also has an impressive
list of wine or sherry, as well. The
tapas list is written on a board behind the bar. Paper thin salt cod (Bacalao) on toast with
Salmorejo and the Pulpo Gallego (octopus served with boiled potatoes, olive oil
and sweet Spanish paprika) are favorites.
Casa Morales
Calle Garcia de Vinuesa 11
Open:
12:00-16:00/20:00-0.00 Closed Sunday.
Bogeguita Romero
Further into El Arenal neighborhood is the
homey, personable and delicious Bodeguita Romero. In its third generation, it is truly a family
operation. Without
a doubt, the Pringa Montaditos, a crispy roll stuffed with slow cooked pork and
black pudding, is the best in town. If
you are lucky, the owner will be behind the counter and then you will know that
his famous house marinated potatoes are on the menu. He is the only one that makes the dish. If you have room, opt for one more tapa. The Carrilladas, braised pork cheeks, will
melt in your mouth and have a wonderful depth of flavor.
 |
| Braised Pork Cheeks |
 |
| The secret potatoes and a pringa! |
 |
| Slightly fried salt cod - delicious |
Bogeguita Romero
Calle Harinas 10
Open:
12:00-17:00/20:00-0.00 Closed
Sunday evening and all day Monday
 |
| Stuffed baby squid over midges |
La Brunilda
Round out the
neighborhood with a visit to the upscale gastropub, La Brunilda. This 18th century house has been
transformed into a beautiful space with some of the best tapas in all of
Sevilla. You cannot go wrong with
anything on the menu but highlights are the grilled baby squid (Chiperones)
with migas, the iconic tapas dish Papas Bravas or one of the tapa-sized salads.
La Brunilda
Galera 5
Open:
13:00-16:00/20:30-23:30 Closed Sunday evening and all day Monday
 |
| Rice paper triangles stuffed with shrimp |
 |
| A very creative tomato mozzarella salad with basil dummies |
La Azotea
Saving the best for last, no tapas tour
would be complete with a visit to La Azotea and luckily, there are three
locations. No joke, Dear Daughter and I once ate at all three locations within a 36 hour time period! It is that good. Run by a husband (Spanish)
and wife (American) team, the tapas at La Azotea are creative and absolutely superb. The Chef’s Croquetas are always a great
initial choice: inventive and delicious.
Rice paper triangles filled with shrimp, leeks and cheese are
heavenly. Carrillada Iberica (stewed
pig’s cheek) is served in a rich red wine sauce and topped with melted goat
cheese. A traditional tomato and
mozzarella salad is transformed with basil gummies and a spoonful of lemon
sorbet. The service is attentive and friendly and the food is amazing. This is a place you will want to return to,
time and time again.
La Azotea
Jesus del Gran Poder 31
13:30-16:30/20:30-0.00 Closed
Sunday and Monday
La Azotea
Calle Zaragoza 5
13:30-16:30/20:30-0:00
Azotea Santa Cruz
Calle Mateos Gago 8
09:00-12:00/12:30-23:30
Enjoying
tapas is enjoying Sevilla and all that it has to offer. Get out there and explore!
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